Bhutan

Dates: March 27 - April 9, 2010
Leaders: Moe Witschard and David Middleton
Location: Bhutan
Cost: $7495

About the Workshop

Largely isolated from the outside world for centuries, closed to foreigners until three decades ago, visiting Bhutan is like stepping back in time. Ruled by a series of highly educated and beloved kings, it has consciously cultivated both a fiercely guarded traditional culture and the world’s most well tended natural environment. A mesmerizing land of peace, prosperity and spiritual richness, Bhutan and its friendly people are a photographer’s paradise.

Tantric Mahayana Buddhism permeates all aspects of Bhutanese culture, and the workshop includes photographing a fantastically colorful festival with sacred pageantry and wondrous dance. Dance performances will go on all day amidst swirling costumes, ancient, magical masks, crowds of smiling young monks in training and fascinating sacred rites. Imagine the pictures!

Everyday will enchant us as we slowly explore this beautiful country on this customized itinerary created solely for us. We linger at a few spectacular areas—Paro, Punakha, Bumthang, the Phobjikha valley—rather than blasting around the whole country always in a rush. If we see something we want to photograph, we will stop and take our time capturing the sights. Who would want to hurry through a thicket of prayer flags or a forest of blooming, tree-sized rhododendrons? We have picked spring for this trip rather than the more touristy fall for the lushness of the landscape and the beautiful quality of spring light.

Few destinations throughout history have generated the stir of anticipation among travelers worldwide that Bhutan created when it tentatively cracked its door ajar three decades ago. The few who have ventured in have been startled to behold the last intact Buddhist Himalayan kingdom. It is the last Himalayan country that has not been trampled by western tourism.

We invite you to seize the day, to experience Bhutan at this historic juncture, and travel and photograph with us to a land on the brink of transformation.

Gallery

Included in the Workshop

Photography instruction and coaching by David Middleton and Moe Witschard.
Round trip flights from Bangkok to Paro (Bhutan).
Twin sharing accommodations. Note: In the unlikely event that specified hotels are not available for a given departure, we reserve the right to make suitable same-class substitutions without notice. Single Supplement: A single supplement must be paid under the following conditions: 1. If single accommoda- tions are requested, or: 2. If we cannot match you with a same gender roommate, or: 3. If you reject your roommate either before or during the trip (a room of your own is not guaranteed in this instance, and is subject to availability).
Meals as designated on the itinerary, when taken with the group. Non-alcoholic beverages, bottled water and local beer included with all group meals. Bottled water included during all touring.
Airport transfers for group flights; all transfers to and from hotels for group activities and photo tours unless you separate from the group after the completion of the group activity.
Entrance fees, camera fees, visa fees, domestic and international airport departure taxes for group flights, domestic permits.
Predeparture materials, including a customized Travel Guide with background information, packing list, cultural primer, medical information and reading list.
A $75,000 Emergency Medical Evacuation policy, and a $2,500 Emergency Medical Insurance and assistance policy.

What is Not Included

International airfare from the US to Bangkok.
All snacks, extra personal beverages & bottled water, etc. other than during designated group meals.
Passport, video fees, excess baggage fees, laundry, medical and evacuation expenses and any other items of a personal nature not specifically included above.
All tips for your tour leader, driver, porters. etc. are not included.
ADDITIONAL INSURANCE OF ANY KIND, including trip cancellation/ interruption/delay, additional medical and lost baggage insurance. (We highly recommend that you purchase these items!)
Any and all expenses resulting from delays arising beyond our direct control due to bad weather, trail, river, sea, and/or road conditions; sickness; government action; and any other transportation delays for any reason beyond our direct control. Sufficient funds should be carried for this possibility. Credits may not be available for group arrangements missed for the above reasons.
Optional activities, free-day activities, including any additional stopover arrangements not specifically included in the group itinerary. We can of course make additional arrangements for you. Extra charges will apply.
Note: Prices subject to change. Itinerary and all terms & conditions subject to change without notice, either before departure or after commencement of the program. Due to frequent changes in air schedules and the complex nature of this itinerary, the possibility does exist that the order of events may change from what is reflected herein. All programs are subject to the ‘Terms and Conditions’ and ‘Responsibilities’ sections of our sign-up packet.

To Register:

Call Lesa Clarkson at 800.642.2742 extension 245. She’ll happily discuss our Bhutan trip with you in detail. You'll need to submit a $1,000 per person deposit to reserve your space. Lesa will provide you with payment details and procedures.

If you have additional questions about this workshop, please feel free to Contact Us.

PAW workshops: the best leaders, locations, and instruction.

Transportation and Lodging

The workshop starts and ends in Coyhaique, the “capitol” of central Patagonia. We will pick you up and drop you off at the Coyhaique (Balmaceda) airport. Please email Moe when you have your flight arrival information.

Participants are responsible for their flights from the U.S. to Chile and their connecting flight to Coyhaique (Balmaceda) airport, which has several flights daily from Santiago, Chile and Puerto Montt, Chile. Most people will fly from the U.S. to Santiago and then catch a Lan Chile flight from Santiago to Coyhaique.

Lodging is included in the price of this workshop.

Schedule

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Arrive in Bangkok
Welcome to Thailand. Upon arrival in Bangkok, transfer to the airport hotel and check in with workshop leaders David Middleton and Moe Witschard. Overnight at the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Fly to Paro, Bhutan / Paro Festival
This morning, transfer to the airport for the flight to Paro. Once in Paro, wit- ness the Paro Tshechu (Festival), one of the most colorful and popular festivals in Bhutan. Many local people will have come from miles around to partake in the festival. They will come dressed in their finest hand-woven clothes to honor Guru Rinpoche, to gain the blessings of attendance at the festival, and to enjoy the camaraderie of family and friends. Performances of dynamic and sacred masked dances with streaming costumes will fill the courtyard of the lhakhang (temple). The schedule for the next two days will be flexible in order to attend and photograph as much of the festivities as you would like.
This afternoon, visit the impressive Paro Dzong that dominates the valley. Here you will see one of the finest examples of Bhutanese architecture. The Ta Dzong (National Museum) towers above the Paro Dzong, and viewing its well-interpreted collection of historic artifacts will provide deep insight into Bhutanese culture and the great Bhutanese story yet to come. Overnight at the Olathang Hotel (B,L,D)

Monday, March 29, 2010

Paro Today, continue to enjoy the festival. Midmorning, visit a local farm house to gain insight into the traditional way of life and enjoy Bhutanese snacks and tea in the company of a local family. The Paro Valley is extremely fertile and was once completely covered with farms and crops. Today the farms are slowly being replaced by buildings.
This afternoon, visit Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the most sacred temples in Bhutan. Bhutanese history says that this temple was one of 108 temples built in a single day in 659, commissioned by Songtsen Gampo of Tibet. The specific purpose was to pin down an ogress who, covering all of Bhutan and Tibet, was impeding the spread of Buddhism in the area. Pilgrims come from all over the region to worship at this sacred site. Overnight at the Olathang Hotel (B,L,D)

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Paro / Punakha Today is the last day of the Paro Tshechu. Very early this morning (between 02:00- 03:00), enjoy an optional visit to the festival sight to witness the highlight of the festival, the Thongdrel Ceremony, or the unfurling of the giant thangkha (religious scroll), which is a 90 x 100 foot image of Guru Rinpoche’s eight manifestations. This ceremony is an almost four-century- old tradition in Paro and is very sacred. Religious ceremonies are performed and the thangkha has to be rolled back before sunrise, hence the early start. The thang- kha is only unfurled once a year at this festival.

After the ceremony, return to the hotel to rest and have breakfast before departing on the approximately four-hour drive to the lower valley of Punakha. The journey crosses Dochhu La Pass where 108 stupas have been erected by the Queen Mother, including a magnificent temple, overlooking the stupas. En route, stretch your legs with a 20-minute walk on flat ground to Chimi Lhakhang, a fertility shrine built in the 15th century by Lama Drukpa Kunley, the “Divine Madman.” Drukpa Kunley’s outrageous antics and sexual exploits are legendary, and he is a favorite among couples wanting children.

Arriving in Punakha, visit the Punakha Dzong, recently renovated due to damage caused by a fire in 1986. Traditional building techniques were used that eschew
the use of nails, plans or power tools. Overnight at the Damchen Resort (B,L,D)

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Punakha / Jakar (Bumthang District)
This morning depart Punakha on a full-day drive (approximately seven hours) through the heartland of Bhutan to the four valleys of the Bumthang District (Choskhor, Tang, Ura and Chhumey). The journey takes you through the Black Mountains and traverses through dense conifer forests and hillsides covered with giant rhododendron and dwarf bamboo. Yak will be plentiful and monkeys may pop out from the trees. Cross over Pele La Pass (11,217 feet) dividing western and eastern Bhutan, before reaching Trongsa, situated in the middle of the country.

Trongsa experienced a large influx of Tibetan immigrants in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Bhutanese of Tibetan descent have become well assimilated into Bhutanese society and run most of the shops in town. Once in Trongsa, visit the Trongsa Dzong, the ancestral home of Bhutan’s royal family. At one with an undulating ridgetop, it is arguably the most impressive dzong in the kingdom. The landscape around Trongsa is spectacular and the dzong can be seen for miles.

Continue the drive east, stopping at the village of Zungney, well known for its distinctive yathra (wool) woven textiles. As you approach Chumey Valley, the first valley
of Bumthang, the landscape changes to wide open space and cultivated plots. Late this afternoon, arrive in Jakar, the trading center for the district. Overnight at the Gongkhar Guest House (B,L,D)

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Jakar (Bumthang District)
This morning begin exploring the Bumthang Valley and its many amazing monuments. According to Bhutanese history books, Guru Rinpoche, the central figure in Tantric Buddhism, visited this valley in the 8th century. He hid treasures of enlightenment, or terma, throughout the valley and Bhutan. Once these terma are found by a “revealer of treasures” or terton, the benefit inherent in the trea- sure is dispersed. A monument is built to commemorate the great event. Kurjey Lhakhang, the monastery where Guru
Rinpoche meditated, is one such place, and one can see the imprint of his body in the rock where he sat.

Visit Jambhay Lhakhang and the imposing Jakar Dzong (fortress monastery) for a beautiful view of the valley. Continue to a nearby shedra (monastic college) where the monks will demonstrate an interesting tool of study, the theological debate. The monks grill each other on the meaning of sacred texts. If a monk answers incorrectly, the others clap and the sound reverberates throughout the chamber. It’s good natured, boisterous fun, as well as a skillful way to delve into profound Buddhist philosophy.
End the day with a walk into the countryside passing buckwheat fields, temples, and farmhouses. You’ll also have the opportunity to visit Tamshing Gompa, founded by the great “revealer of trea- sures,” Pema Lingpa. It contains exquisite paintings and statuary said to date back to the time of the great revealer himself. Overnight at the Gongkhar Guest House (B,L,D)

Friday, April 2, 2010

Jakar (Bumthang District)
This morning, venture to the Tang Valley and visit Membartso (Burning Lake), one of the most revered sites in Bhutan. Here Pema Lingpa found his first treasure in the rolling, black waters. Flecked with mica dust, the water indeed possesses a magic all its own. Continue to Ura, the last of the four valleys of Bumthang on the way to Eastern Bhutan. Owing to the hardwork- ing people here, Ura has become a model farming village, even in the harsh climatic conditions at its altitude of approximately 10,000 feet. Enjoy a walk or drive into the countryside to small villages where wonderful photo opportunities abound.

Returning to Jakar, visit the Swiss Dairy project to sample some fine cheese and fresh wheat beer (optional). The remainder of the evening is at leisure to stroll through the local town. Overnight at the Gongkhar Guest House (B,L,D)

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Jakar / Phobjikha Valley
This morning, begin the return journey to the western part of the country. Your destination is the Phobjikha Valley (drive time is approximately 5.5 hours). The valley is a designated conservation area that borders Black Mountain National Park. It is here that the large flock of black-necked cranes stay over winter. It is also home to barking deer, wild boar, sambar, black bear, leopard and fox.

Arriving this afternoon, enjoy a short walk around the area. Visit the spectacularly situated Gangtey Goemba, sitting at the crest of the pristine Phobjikha Valley. This 400-year-old monastery possesses a special spiritual gravity. The entire area is quite tranquil, with its rolling hills and green meadows surrounded by snowcapped peaks. The monastery just completed a major renovation project and is beautiful. Overnight at the Dewachen Hotel (B,L,D)

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Phobjikha Valley / Thimphu
This morning, continue east to the capital town of Thimphu, taking about four hours.

Arriving in Thimphu, immediately visit the Thimphu Weekend Market. Bhutanese come from far and wide to trade everything from vegetables and yak cheese to textiles, incense, bows and arrows, and religious artifacts such as incense, gongs and bells. It’s a wonderful glimpse into the lives of the local Bhutanese.

After settling into the hotel, visit Tashichhodzong, the capitol building and office of the reigning king, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuk. Here the king and the Je Khenpo (supreme religious leader) rule side-by-side to provide for the welfare of their people’s secular and spiritual well being. Recent democratic elections and reforms mandated by the last king are propelling Bhutan into the modern era as a constitutional democracy. The king is still the head of the state, while the elected Prime Minister is the head of the government and occupies an office in the parliament building, located just across the river.

End the day at the Memorial Chorten to witness the faithful making their prayerful afternoon circumambulations. Built in 1974 to honor the memory of the beloved third king, the grandfather of the current monarch, this chorten is the focus of daily worship for many. Afterwards, walk to the nearby Zilukha nunnery for a rare nod at the role of women in the spiritual realm. This evening, enjoy a traditional Bhutanese dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight at the Namgay Heritage Hotel (B,L,D)

Monday, April 5, 2010

Thimphu Thimphu is the cultural heartland of Bhutan and this morning, you will be immersed in the traditions and arts and crafts of the valley. Visit the Folk Heritage Museum, the excellent Textile Museum and the Handicrafts Emporium. Also visit the National Institute for Zorig Chusum (National Painting School), where government scholarships provide talented students the opportunity to learn traditional arts. This afternoon continue touring based on the recommendations of your guide or enjoy some free time to shop and walk through the streets of Thimphu independently.

Reconvene later this afternoon to drive to the valley viewpoint at Sangay Gang for a wonderful panoramic of the city. From here, enjoy an afternoon walk to Dechenphordang Monastic School. This evening, enjoy a homemade Bhutanese dinner at a private residence, allowing insight into the lives of the Bhutanese. Learn first hand how their country is rapidly changing and the impact it has on them. Overnight at the Namgay Heritage Hotel (B,L,D)

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Thimphu This morning embark on an optional hike of approximately three hours round trip to the dramatically set Tango Monastery. Here amidst the pine forest, clinging to the cliff-side, is a half-round building. This monastery was built in the 17th century by Desi Tenzin Rabgye, a descendant of one of Bhutan’s most well loved figures, Lama Drukpa Kunley, “The Divine Madman.” Those who choose not to hike will have free time to explore independently.

This afternoon visit the Institute of Traditional Medicines, where the traditional art of healing is still practiced. If interested, visit the National Library, built to
preserve ancient sacred texts in both the Dzongkha (Bhutanese) and Tibetan languages. Archery is a very popular sport in Bhutan and this afternoon you will have the chance to witness a competition or practice, and try your hand at it as well. Overnight at the Namgay Heritage Hotel (B,L,D)

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Thimphu / Haa Valley / Paro
This morning drive back to Paro via the Haa Valley, southwest of Paro. The 4.5 hour journey will cross Chele La Pass at 12,900 feet, the highest motorable pass in Bhutan. Until recently, the Haa Valley was restricted to tourists but it’s now open, offering great views of Mt. Chomolhari (23,997 feet) on a clear day. It also provides the wonderful opportunity to visit the small village of Haa. The surrounding farming community grows wheat, barley and millet, and raises yaks for meat. Returning to Paro, transfer to the familiar hotel for the evening. Overnight at the Olathang Hotel (B,L,D)

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Paro The journey to Bhutan culminates with a visit to one of the most venerated pilgrim sites in the Himalayan Buddhist world. Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest), icon of Bhutan, clings to a cliff 3,000 feet above the Paro Valley floor. This dramatically situated and most sacred monastery is accessible by a round-trip walk (or pony ride) of about five to six hours. Unfortunately a fire destroyed the main structure of Taktsang in 1998, but it has now been completely reconstructed and is as beautiful as ever. If you feel like only hiking halfway, there is a tea house midpoint on the hike with wonderful views. It is a great place to relax and have lunch.

This afternoon, drive to the end of the Paro Valley to see the picturesque ruins of the once massive Drukgyel Dzong. This fortress sits along a strategic route to Tibet and once provided protection from invasion from the north. From a vantage point on top of the ruins one can see the picturesque Paro Valley below and sacred Chomolhari Mountain above. Return to the hotel to enjoy a farewell Dinner. Overnight at the Olathang Hotel (B,L,D)

Friday, April 9, 2010

Paro / Fly to Bangkok and onward to the US or extend
This morning fly back to Bangkok and onward to the US, or begin a customized extension program to Angkor in Cambodia or a beach in southern Thailand. (B)

Equipment and Gear

Digital SLR with back up digital SLR that will fit your lenses

Battery charger
A few extra batteries
Memory cards (bring plenty!!!)
Sensor cleaning supplies

Lenses

12-24mm (for the 1.5x sensor size cameras) or 17-35mm (full frame)
28-105mm lens or similar
70-200mm, 100-400 or similar
Polarizing filter(s)
Lens hoods for all lenses
Lint-free cloth to clean lenses and
air blower for dust
Lensbaby if you have one or else you can try one of ours!
Compact flash unit that fits on the hotshoe of your camera.

Computer / Digital Accessories

Laptop with charger
Laptop with photo editing software (Photoshop or Lightroom preferred)
Portable hard drive as backup (at least one)
Card Reader
Small jump drive (thumb drive)
All cables for drives, computer, card readers, storage devices, etc.

Other

Tripod
Cable release
Small headlamp or flashlight
Photo backpack or bag

Camera manual

The Leaders

DAVID MIDDLETON is a professional outdoor photographer, writer and naturalist who has lead more than 150 photography tours and taught more than 200 photography workshops. He is a gifted and enthusiastic teacher who has taught photographers and nature lovers of all levels and interests. Every year, he critiques more than 10,000 images and teaches close to 1,000 photography students.

During his 25-year career, David has traveled extensively through the US and Canada and much of Central and South America, South Africa and Australia. His photography and writing have been featured in many magazines, books and calendars. David is a Contributing Editor of Outdoor Photographer Magazine and a co-founder of Photographer’s Alliance Workshops.

David has produced 10 books including Ancient Forests, American Vision, the Photographer’s Guide series to Vermont, the coast of Maine and the coast of Oregon, The Nature of America—the largest nature photography book project ever undertaken— The Nature of Vermont and his most recent, Quite a Sightly Place: Stories from an Old Vermont Dairy Farm.

David lives in the heart of the Green Mountains in southern Vermont and now does most of his photography at a nearby 240-year-old dairy farm. He has gone from taking pictures of the wild and woolly lions and tigers and bears to taking those of the dull and domesticated heifers, bulls and old farmers...although the latter can be, at times, a bit more wild and woolly than any- one might expect.

When not taking pictures, David is an avid, but slow, runner and biker and an imaginative birdwatcher who spends probably more time than he should wandering the woods and meadows on his old farm with his black lab, Abe.

MOE WITSCHARD is a commercial and editorial photographer specializing in adventure/outdoor lifestyle, travel, and landscape images. His adventure and travel images celebrate people living in, traveling through, and recreating in beautiful and inspiring places. Landscape photography was the magnet that drew him to this field and it continues to form the core of his fine art work. Moe’s photographic travels have taken him all over western North America from Baja to Alaska, to the Canadian Arctic, Patagonia, Ecuador, East Africa, Thailand, and most recently to the Himalayan country of Bhutan.

Moe loves teaching and working with groups. Prior to his career in photography, a 20-year career in outdoor education gave Moe extensive experience working with enthusiastic learners of all ages. In addition to doing private photography instruction, Moe has instructed photography workshops in Death Valley, Alaska, the Tetons, Glacier National Park, the Smokies, and several other locations. He is known for his contagious enthusiasm and his ability to explain concepts clearly and simply.

Contact:

Moe Witchard

Email: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
Website: www.moephotography.com
Skype: paworkshops
General Info: 877.384.PAWS(7297)
Cell Phone: 406.570.3505

Final Thoughts

I consider myself very lucky to have visited many countries on all of the continents, save Antarctica. Bhutan is hands down my favorite.

The ubiquitous color, the friendly and very beautiful people, the marvelously rugged Himalayas, the pristine forests, and the Buddhist thread that permeates all parts of this land make Bhutan an incredibly stimulating place for the photographer. Traveling in Bhutan is like going back in time. This tiny kingdom has strongly resisted westernization for a long time, but change is happening and there is no better time than now for a photography trip to this amazing kingdom.

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